Okay, I need to have a word with you. Every year I watch new beekeepers make the same five mistakes — and I watch their colonies pay for it. I’ve been surveilling enough backyards to say this with confidence: it’s almost never bad luck. It’s almost always one of these. Let’s fix that before your bees arrive.

⚠️ Mistake #1: Ignoring Varroa Mites (“I'll Deal With It Later”)

This is the big one. The colony killer. Varroa destructor is a parasitic mite that feeds on honey bee fat bodies and spreads deadly viruses like Deformed Wing Virus. Every colony has them. Yes, yours too — probably as you're reading this.

What to do instead:

  • Start monitoring mite levels by Month 2 using an alcohol wash or sugar roll

  • Treat when mite counts exceed 2–3 mites per 100 bees

  • Learn at least one treatment method before you need it — oxalic acid vapor and Apivar strips are common beginner-friendly options

  • Join a local bee club so an experienced beekeeper can walk you through your first mite check (this one alone can save your colony)

Mistake #2: Opening the Hive Too Much (or Not Enough)

Too much: Every inspection disrupts the colony. You break propolis seals, release heat, stress the bees, and risk crushing the queen. None of this is a good look.

Too little: You miss early signs of problems — laying workers, failing queens, disease, overcrowding that leads to swarming.

The sweet spot: Inspect every 7–10 days during active season. Keep it under 15 minutes. Use a checklist: Is the queen present? Eggs? Is the brood pattern solid? Enough food? Signs of disease? Get in, get your answers, get out.

🍯 Mistake #3: Harvesting Honey the First Year

Your first-year colony almost never produces surplus honey. They're building comb from scratch, growing their population, and storing food for winter. Taking honey from a first-year colony is like emptying someone's savings account right before a layoff.

What to do instead:

  • Leave ALL the honey for your bees the first year

  • In cold climates, colonies need 60–100 lbs of stored honey to survive winter

  • If they're light going into fall, feed them: 2:1 sugar syrup

  • Your patience pays off. A strong colony that survives winter produces significantly more honey in Year 2.

📍 Mistake #4: Bad Hive Placement

Common placement mistakes:

  • Full shade: Bees need morning sun to get active early

  • No windbreak: Winter winds hitting the entrance directly can be devastating

  • Low ground: Hives in low spots collect moisture and cold air

  • Entrance facing the wrong way: Point it south or southeast

  • Too close to foot traffic: Bees fly in a direct line from the entrance

The ideal setup: morning sun, afternoon shade (in hot climates), entrance facing south/southeast, elevated on a hive stand, windbreak on the north side.

🍬 Mistake #5: Not Feeding New Colonies

When you install a new package or nuc, those bees are starting from near zero. Not feeding is the most common beginner mistake — and the easiest fix.

  • Feed 1:1 sugar syrup from day one of installation

  • Use an in-hive feeder (entrance feeders invite robbing)

  • Keep feeding until they've drawn out most of their comb

  • In fall, switch to 2:1 syrup for winter stores

🎯 This Week's One Thing

Do a mite wash. If you have bees right now, test your mite levels this weekend. Search “alcohol wash varroa mite count” — the University of Guelph has an excellent step-by-step walkthrough.

🍯 Next Issue

“The Gear That Actually Matters” — what to buy, what to skip, and where most beginners waste money.

Found this useful? Forward it to a friend who's thinking about getting bees. The more beekeepers, the merrier — I speak from personal experience.

— Bee 🐝

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